Tips on managing common dog problems

Play biting
I’m sure my puppy is crossed with a crocodile I hear you say!
It is believed that puppies have needle sharp teeth because they have weak jaws. They play bite so that they can learn bite inhibition (in English this means they learn to bite softly. Yup, really, although it probably doesn’t feel like that at the moment with your clothes in tatters and bleeding hands!)
As a group of dogs they need to learn how to enforce discipline without causing damage. The puppies play bite and learn by feedback from the puppy being bitten who yelps sharply. This startles the biter and they learn to bite less hard in the future.
Many trainers advise that if you yelp this should stop the puppy biting. However, in many cases (especially terrier breeds) this can actually stimulate their prey instincts and make them bite even harder and faster! This is mainly because we are not dogs and cannot mimic their sounds or actions well enough to get the message through. Also people tend not to do this convincingly or quickly enough for it to be effective. It does help if you can immediately replace whatever part of you your puppy was biting with a suitable toy! The method I prefer to use is as follows:

Start a game with a tug toy or a soft toy. The puppy usually will get worked up and start biting the toy. If the puppy’s teeth touch your hand you should say firmly “End of game” and remove the toy immediately and decisively. Go and make a cup of tea or read a book. This is a good clue to the puppy that you are not going to play. When the puppy has calmed down, repeat. Each time the puppy’s teeth touch your hand you should end the game with this clear cue. Your puppy will quickly realise that if he wishes to continue to play he will keep better control over those little crocodile teeth. This exercise should be repeated by all in the household if possible.
You should not play too roughly with your puppy as it gets him over excited and he will bite more and harder. Keep games calm and end them calmly before they get out of control. 

My puppy is doing the hoovering!
What’s wrong with that I hear you ask! Well, they tend to just vacuum over the same spot and the vacuum cleaner is never the same when it has holes in it. Seriously a common problem is that the puppy or dog jumps all over or chases the vacuum cleaner whilst it is in use. My own dog actually stands in front of you and pushes up to the vacuum attachment as she loves to be vacuumed, a very convenient way of dealing with all those loose Dalmatian hairs that get everywhere!

A good way to habituate your puppy to a vacuum is to start off by just placing it switched off in full view of your puppy. This way he should get accustomed (habituated) to it. If everything is going well then start to push it around very slowly (still switched off). If your puppy ignores it, or doesn’t chase it praise (or click and treat) your puppy. If your puppy shows too much interest, slow down a bit more and work at a level which does not over stimulate your puppy’s chase instinct. Keep praising for not chasing/grabbing/biting etc. When your puppy is accepting/ignoring this then you are ready to switch it on. Don’t do this whilst your puppy is very close to it and try not to take undue notice of your puppy whilst you are doing this. If possible get someone else to distract your puppy with a game in another room. If this is not possible it would be a good idea to separate your puppy via dog gate so they do not get too close. Before you start the vacuum cleaner give your puppy a filled Kong to play with. (A Kong is a rubber toy with a hollow centre in which you can stuff food.) When your puppy is engaged in playing with the Kong, start the vacuum and complete your work. If your puppy is barking and or really does not accept the vacuum cleaner after all this then it may be worth having a chat with a dog trainer for further advice.
By the way, do avoid laughing at your puppy if they behave strangely with the vacuum as they will see this as rewarding and do it more. Also, avoid teasing your puppy with it. Phobias can be caused by inappropriate introductions to certain items and can quickly generalise to other things making your's and your dog's life miserable!
N.B. Fearful behaviour of more than one or two things may indicate an underlying problem which may need veterinary and/or a professional behaviourist’s advice.

My puppy doesn’t like being groomed
Grooming is an important part of your social interaction with your puppy. Mutual grooming is a part of canine life. To make life easier for us humans we can buy brushes and combs for convenient grooming! However, brushes and combs moving through fur is just another selection of chew toys in your puppy’s eyes! So, it’s only natural that they will try to bite them. The best way of doing this is to distract your puppy with a treat in your other hand. One that lasts a while is a good idea. Keep praising him when he accepts the brush without trying to bite it. Practise makes perfect. Make sure it’s a pleasant experience for him (try not to pull knots too hard and also keep nice and calm, no matter how naughty he is). If you get cross with him he will only learnt t hate being groomed so you will not make any progress. Whilst you groom, it’s a good idea to get your puppy accustomed to being checked over like your vet will do. Check his ears, eyes, tail, and paws. His paws should be checked after each walk anyway as paws are prone to damage, especially these days when people are so kind as to leave smashed glass bottles in the fields and on the pavements! Keep praising him all the time and he will be happy to be examined and you will be your vet’s best friend! If you do need to get a professional grommer, then as with all things, ge a recommendation as some are better than others.

Toilet Training

There can be several reasons for toilet training problems. You will need to train your puppy to go outside. I feel that some of the new fangled training aids such as puppy pads can cause more problems than they solve. It is usually best, where possible, to just take your puppy outside regularly and then reward with praise and a treat when they have done their business. As they are doing the action, say "Go wee" or "Go Poo" and then reward with a treat. If they toilet indoors, it's best to ignore the fact and tidy up without comment! Believe me, if they get the idea toileting indoors annoys you it may be used against you in the future! It can be a great way to get your attention!

Useful info:

• Sniffing around is often a sign of a need to pee or poo. Take your puppy outside if they do this. Reward with a treat if they do go outdoors.
• The early habituation experiences of your puppy will impact where they decide to pee/poo. E.G. If they are bred in a home with a garden and encouraged to use grass early on then they will favour grass. If they are bred to use concrete, then they will favour concrete etc. If they are allowed to soil carpets at the breeder, then they will soil carpets etc etc.
• Clean up well using a biological washing powder or alcohol based cleaner. Watch out for bleach and ammonia as dogs use previous ammonia/urine type smells as a signal to eliminate if they have a full bladder. E.G, bleach and ammonia based cleaners can actually make things worse and not better.
• Feeding times can have a big impact on indoor toileting problems. Make sure you feed your dog at least twice a day (more if a puppy). If you feed too late at night your dog/pup will not have the chance to eliminate as the food won't have passed through their system. If you feed your dog their daily allowance in one feed this can lead to inability to clear out all the waste, especially as typically, dogs fed once a day are fed at night.This can lead to night time soiling. Best to take your dog out for a good walk more than an hour after their meal as this will encourage elimination and reduce the risk of bloat.
• What you feed your dog also impacts toileting. If you feed mainly wet food you have to feed a lot to ensure adequate nutrition. What goes in MUST come out! Therefore, dogs fed on canned foods or predominantly wet food can have toileting timing problems.
• If your dog is not fed on wet food and poos more than 3 or 4 times a day it may be worth a chat with your vet, especially if the poo is sloppy, smelly, bloody or slimy. If your dog is healthy then a considered change of diet may be applicable as the normal should be around 2-3 poos a day for an adult dog fed twice a day (Obviously, puppies fed more frequently will poo more frequently).